IMPROVEMENT OF THE METHODS OF CONDUCTING COMMODITY EXAMINATION OF PERFUMERY PRODUCTS

The question of the quality of perfumery products is always relevant, since these products are in contact with human skin and directly affect the health of a person.
Thus, there is a need for actual research in the area of examination of perfumery products as to their compliance to national standards and international regulatory documents, since such research results will play the role of a concrete basis for the development of modern methods for the examination of perfumery products.
The expert practice of the perfume industry requires a scientific systematization of the accumulated material, taking into account the new regulatory framework and economic conditions. With regard to regulatory documentation in the perfumery industry, this situation has developed a part of the regulatory documents that has remained an inheritance since the Soviet Union and was revised in connection with the new requirements of scientific and technological progress. As a result, in recent years, national standards have been adopted and enforced [1, 2, 3] and the following European regulations [4, 5, 6, 7] have been introduced, which are directly related to the definition of quality and commodity-based examination of perfumery products.
According to the content of the perfume composition (odorants) and for the purpose according to DSTU 4710: 2006 [1, р. 4], perfumery products are divided into concentrated perfumes (content of fragrant substances not less than 30%), perfumes (the content of fragrant substances is not less than 15%), perfumes-espri (content of fragrant substances not less than 10%), perfumery waters (content of aromatic substances not less than 8.0%), toilet waters (not less than 4.0%), cologne (not less than 1.5%), fragrant water (not less than 1.0%). Perfumes and toilet waters are used as a means of flavoring; cologne – hygienic, refreshing and aromatic; fragrant water – both refreshing and hygienic.
The peculiarity of the examination of the quality of perfumery products is the simultaneous examination of the quality of perfumes and containers (tubes, jars, bottles, pens, etc.), in which the medium is packed. The concept of «perfume product» includes two components: content and packaging (individual).
Another feature is that the expert does not set a percentage reduction in the quality of the product, which has defects or lost (partly or entirely) the appearance. The acts of examination state the actual state of the product (container and contents), a description of defects is given. Products that have defects or lost the appearance of the expert attribute to poor quality. They are properly packaged, and the products are sealed with a personal stamp of an expert, with an appropriate entry in the examination act.
The conformity of marking of consumer packaging with perfumery products is determined according to DSTU 5010: 2008 Production of perfumery and cosmetics. Packaging, marking, transport and storage [3], Regulation (EC) №1223/2009 [5], «Guidelines for the Labeling of Cosmetic Products in the European Union» (Developed by COLIPA, December 2012) [4].
Marking can be applied to labels or directly to the body of the jar, box, pencil case, vial and package.
A designer label must be attached to a bottle of perfume indicating the name of the product on the front side and the manufacturer’s name, address and trademark, as well as the month and year of production, the retail price, the symbol of the applicable standard, and the name of the product group on the reverse side.
When perfume is sold in unlabeled bottles placed in carton cases all marking must be made on the carton case. On the paper adhesive tapes, which are affixed to the boxes, the name of the product and the number of the article should be indicated by the printing method or the stamp paint; the name of the enterprise of its location; number of items packed in boxes; date of manufacture, brigade number; the name of the product group; standard designation.
In the boxes of perfumery products, the name of the product and the article number must be indicated; the name of the manufacturer and its location or the name of the consignor; name of the consignee; the serial number of the box and the time of manufacture; number of articles per piece; number of packer; standard designation. Boxes should have the following inscriptions: «Up», «Do not throw!», «Glass».
The minimum expiration date is indicated using the words «Applicable to (month, year)» or «Validity period (months, years)», with the indication of the place on the package, where this date is [3, р. 5; 5].
The composition of perfumery products should begin with the title «Ingredients». Ingredients with a mass fraction of less than 1% can be listed in any order after those ingredients with a mass fraction of more than 1%.
A mixture of fragrant substances can be mentioned as the only ingredient with the use of words: «aromatic composition», «perfumery composition» without disclosing its composition.
Permissible negative deviations in volume of perfumery products in consumer containers are set in the technical requirements for a perfumery of a certain name and make no more than 6 %. Conformity with the appearance, color and smell of perfumery products are determined in accordance with DSTU 5009:2008 Perfumery and cosmetics. Rules of acceptance, sampling, methods of tests [2, р. 3 – 4].
All the aforementioned domestic and international normative documents are, in our opinion, a normative basis for updating and improving the Methodology for conducting commodity examination of perfumery products. The need for improvement of such a Methodology is obvious, since in Ukraine the Methodology of examination of imported perfume and cosmetic products is used, № 362, registration code – 12.1.08 in the Register of methods of conducting forensic examinations of the Ministry of Justice of Ukraine (the year of the methodology was 1981) [8, р. 19], more than thirty years ago, which is a rather brief document and, most importantly, relies on the old normative base. We offer such a structure of the methodology of commodity examination expertise, which meets the requirements for the coverage of modern normative documents (Table 1).

In our opinion, in practical activity of the expert it is more relevant, even convenient to use two different Methods (that is separately for perfumery goods and separately for cosmetic goods). After all, according to functional properties, perfumes and cosmetics have different purposes and are based on different normative documents, therefore each of them needs its own algorithm of commodity examination expertise.
Prospects for further research in this area are the formation of the basis of the results of studies on the level of quality of perfumery products during the examination of the quality of perfumery products in the light of Regulation (EU) № 1223/2009, Guidelines for the marking of cosmetic products in the European Union. The results of the research of perfumery products will play the role of a concrete basis for the development of a modern methodology for the examination of perfumery products.

1. Perfumery means. General technical conditions : DSTU 4710:2006 [Virobi parfumernі rіdinnі. Zagalnі tehnіchnі umovу : DSTU 4710:2006. Chinnij vіd 01.07.2008], Derzhspozhivstandart Ukrainу, 2008, s. 14 [in Ukrainian].
2. Perfumery and cosmetic products. Rules of acceptance, sampling, methods of organoleptic tests : DSTU 5009:2008 [Virobi parfumerno-kosmetichnі. Pravila prijmannja, vіdbirannja prob, metodi organoleptichnih viprobuvan. DSTU 5009. Chinnij vid 12.06.2008], Derzhspozhyvstandart Ukrainy, 2008, s. 8 [in Ukrainian].
3. Production of perfumes and cosmetics. Packaging, marking, transportation and storage : DSTU 5010:2008 [Produktsiya parfumerno-kosmetychna. Pakuvannya, markuvannya, transportuvannya i zberihannya. DSTU 5010 : 2008. Chinnij vid 01.09.2008], Derzhspozhyvstandart Ukrainy, 2008, s.10 [in Ukrainian].
4. Guide for labeling cosmetic products in the European Union [Kerivnyctvo dlja markuvannja kosmetychnoi produkcii v Jevropejskomu Sojuzi (Rozroblene «COLIPA», gruden 2012 roku)], available at: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/.../Lex Uri Serv.do?uri = OJ:L [in Ukrainian].
5. Regulation (EC) № 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products [Evropejskyj Sojuz Reglament N 1223/2009 Evropejskogo Parlamenta y Soveta ES o kosmetycheskoj prodykcyy], available at: http://www.icqc.eu/userfiles/File/Regulation%20EC%201223-2009.doc.
6. Council Directive on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products 76/768/EEC, available at: http://www.icqc.eu/userfiles/File/Cosmetics_Directive.pdf.
7. DIRECTIVES COMMISSION DIRECTIVE 2010/4/EU 2010. of 8 February 2010 For the purpose of adaptation to technical progress, Annex III to Council Directive 76/768/EEC concerning cosmetic products, Official Journal of the European Union, available at: http://www.icqc.eu/userfiles/File/2010_4.pdf.
8. Реєстр методик проведення судових експертиз Міністерства Юстиції України, [Електронний ресурс]. – Режим доступу: http://rmpse.minjust.gov.ua/page/19.